Despite nerves in Europe over coronavirus, Paris fashion week remained the most glamorous lap of fashion month. I was there (Rita Ora at Miu Miu). In many ways — shockingly, wonderfully — it was business as usual. Fantastical frills and all.
Radical plaid
The classic print was reinvented in myriad ways: Rokh’s mix of asymmetric plaid and florals was a breathtaking masterwork. Vivienne Westwood’s edgy checks, meanwhile, were softened in creamsicle orange. Lanvin polished up a pastel trench and Dries Van Noten doubled down with clashing colorways. Miu Miu kept things feminine, dressing up the trend with bows and pearls.
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Rise and shine
Liquidy fabrics poured onto Parisian catwalks. Nearly every Saint Laurent look featured latex, including this sheer blouse and pencil skirt combo. Balenciaga showed swingy patent leather, bow-topped coats, while Balmain’s gloved suit was the golden ticket — it was worn by Kim Kardashian West only three days after sliding down the runway. Slick.
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Winter whites
No longer banished after Labor Day, head-to-toe white was everywhere. Off-White’s cropped bra and cutout skirt personified (ahem) white-hot. Chanel took its signature tweed jacket and playfully paired it with a matching mini and double C logo hosiery. Givenchy opted for a sophisticated pantsuit.
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Take a puff
It’s not often that function delivers effortless fashion, but fall’s offerings were puffed up to perfection. Hermès’ minimal coats topped chic turtlenecks and pleats. Rick Owens’ blanket cape was a true-blue dream. Dior’s school girl kept things cool with a perfectly slouchy version (right down to the cuffs).
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Going green
Parisian runways had no shortage of the shade that’s become a new evergreen. Lacoste infused the hue with a preppy sensibility, while Valentino’s eveningwear offerings simply glimmered with easy glamour. Louis Vuitton’s finale look showcased a masterful, tapestry-inspired appliqué on a cropped green coat.
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Paloma Elsesser walks for McQueen
“Uncut Gems” actress and plus-size model Paloma Elsesser is known for shaking up expectations, but her groundbreaking runway walk for Alexander McQueen brought some showgoers to tears. Dressed in a romantic cocktail dress styled with matching accessories (a strong theme within the show), she was quickly crowned PFW’s Queen of Hearts.
PFW breakout star: Kenneth Ize
Naomi Campbell doesn’t walk for just anybody. So when she closed Kenneth Ize’s runway show, attention was paid. The Austrian-Nigerian designer— who has a penchant for bold stripes and checks in brilliant color combinations — was an LVMH finalist last September. If his Parisian debut was any indication, there’s much more to come from this bright star.
Marine Serre’s big sip
Water bottles have been popping up on runways for a couple of seasons now, but Marine Serre’s neon pink offerings are particularly refreshing. Not only does the acclaimed designer keep planet Earth top of mind (a theme consistently infused in her collections), but her eco-friendly accessories are beautiful to boot.