Honeymoon in history in this magical Umbrian estate — that’s larger than Manhattan

The Italian province of Umbria shares many of its pastoral pleasures with Tuscany, its northern neighbor.

Ancient Etruscan villages dot the hillsides which are swathed in vineyards and olive groves, and the landscapes have similarly enchanted artists who try to capture its bucolic essence and endless shades of green.

Its capital, Perugia, is two hours from Rome or Florence by car or train, and from here it’s a short drive to the magical estate of Tenuta di Murlo, which covers a sprawling 18,000 acres (to put that into perspective, Manhattan is just over 14,000 acres). 

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One of the largest private land holdings left in Italy, its roots go back 2,000 years to a mountain fort, and the current estate has been in the same family for five centuries. So if you want a honeymoon oozing romance, seclusion and charm all steeped in ancient history, this is the place for you.

The latest generation of the aristocratic family at Tenuta di Murlo is Alessio Carabba Tettamanti (a nobleman whose mother, Diana Radziwill, is no less than a Polish princess) and wife Carlotta.

When they took over the country pile, they were looking at over 80 outbuildings that had been left deserted and decaying since the second world war, when the tenants left agriculture behind and moved into the cities. 

Undaunted, they saw a vision for the future and got to work rehabbing the property, to create “a vast Italian aristocratic estate where our guests have access to all sorts of luxury services and amenities,” said Carlotta. 

As such, in 2006, Tenuto di Murlo opened as a luxe resort, and now houses 9 villas sleeping from 2 to 20 scattered around the estate, with private pools, three deluxe rooms, a restaurant, cooking school, studio, active farm, and thousands of hectares of wilderness, meadows, olive groves, lakes and streams. 

Carved from castles, farms and watchtowers, each villa is completely unique, sympathetically but artistically renovated, and each in its own private setting, with stunning views across the Tiber valley. Furnishings and decor are tasteful and comfortable, all with that excellent Italian eye for design, since the owners are committed to “preserving and enhancing its genius loci and natural balance,” per Carlotta.

The most romantic honeymoon location of all, however, is the secluded two-bedroom cottage of Villa Molinella. The former mill is situated by a river that features natural pools, and the vault now features an underground Jacuzzi. If that’s not enough, there’s a sauna, a pool, and a hot tub overlooking the river.

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If you want to celebrate your wedding at the estate, the grand 10-bedroom Villa Castiglione Ugolino is perfect. A former castle, the vast infinity pool overlooks the whole estate, and the adjoining 13th century parish church of Santa Maria Maddalena has a grand banquet hall.

Artisans renovating the property had a grand surprise.

“They uncovered 12th century frescos that turned out to be by the school of Cimabue, an Italian painter who painted the spectacular Basilica in Assisi and who was Giotto’s teacher,” said Carlotta.

Ceremonies can be held here for up to 55 people, and rental for the villa for 3 nights starts at €27,000 ($29,300.) Regular room rates start at €210 ($227) per night.

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For victuals, a former 15th century defensive tower now houses Il Caldero, the onsite restaurant popular with locals and guests alike, serving up a delicious rotation of fresh farm to table fare and local wine, as well as homegrown honey – visit the apiary for an expert talk from Gianni, a font of all knowledge on organic beekeeping. 

Also not to be missed: a visit to the stables to pet the ponies or, by arrangement, a horse ride over the estate. (Take an e-bike if you’re equine averse.)

It’s the perfect way to see the scale of this magnificent property and take in those spectacular views, yet even beyond that, there’s certainly a special quality in this estate. Carlotta knows what that is – it’s the “deep satisfaction of privacy and proximity to nature that everyone who stays at Tenuta di Murlo feels,” she said.