Aesthetician Joanna Czech on the Most Important Skincare Essentials for Men

This month, it’s Joanna Czech. The Polish-born no-nonsense aesthetician has three studios around the country (New York City, Beverly Hills, Dallas) and is known for combining classic facials with treatments like deep-tissue massage and ultrasound, which help improve the skin from the inside out. She has a namesake line, of course, but she’ll happily recommend others’ products, and her clients are the typical A-list assortment (Aniston, Turlington Burns, Winslet).

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The Expert

Name: Joanna Czech
Occupation: Five-star specialist
HQ: New York City
Specialty: Getting your glow on

The Big Question

Like many people, I’m vain but lazy. I need a shortcut that’s the maximum payoff with the minimum effort, and I don’t want to fill the bathrooms at any of my houses with endless bottles. I’m traveling so often, too, that I can’t carry an overloaded dopp kit. What do you suggest?

I want all men to use retinyl, every single night, which is a phenomenal rejuvenating treatment,” says Czech, of a molecule that’s an ester form of vitamin A, which doesn’t create sun sensitivity and is much gentler than the better-known retinol. She’s obsessive about the difference between shine and glow, which she says retinyl will ensure. “Shiny means burned and over lasered, with too many retinoids, and there’s going to be a lot of redness,” Czech warns. “Glowing adds lighting to your skin and shows health.” Slather on any product with this magic ingredient every night, after applying a toner—and don’t dare skip the latter. “Men and women both forget about toner, and it’s the most important product because it’s pH controlling.”

Think of toner, Czech says, as creating a foundation on which all other products can better function, as it soothes and smooths, priming the skin to respond to whatever else is applied. Don’t worry about gender-specific skincare lines, either, as she thinks that’s a canard; don’t fixate on identifying a go-to brand, either. “I don’t believe in skincare lines, but products. No one line does it all,” she continues. “My very, very favorite product is a toner from South Africa’s Environ.”

And if you’re traveling—whether short- or long-haul—make sure to follow Czech’s routine, and your skin will stay dewy. Rehydration happens faster when water is slightly sweetened, she says, so for quick trips, her in-flight ritual is a bottle of water with an apple. For longer trips, apply vitamin C balm over exposed skin to lock in moisture. Look for anything that offers it in the form of THD Ascorbate, as it’s particularly stable.

Speed Round

What’s your emergency fix for an inconvenient pimple? 

Put a slice of fresh, cold potato on it for 20 minutes—it will calm it down and flatten it, because it has vitamin C, tons of minerals, starch, and an enzyme called catalase.

How far in advance of a facial should a man shave? 

Beards or facial hair do not prevent me from doing a proper cleanse, toning, or facial massage. Even before I arrived in the U.S. 36 years ago, 40 percent of my clients were men.

Sleeping on silk pillowcases—a good idea?

I don’t care for them at all, because they absorb everything on your face. I’m a big proponent of linen, which is antibacterial and antifungal. There’s a reason why kings and queens only used linen.

Biggest mistake men make when shaving? 

The hair on your face tends to grow in all different directions. Shave according to the hair growth everywhere, not in the opposite direction.

The shortcut to depuffing under-eye bags that doesn’t involve surgery? 

Make ice cubes out of rosemary tea and put them on your eyes, then use a very gentle, shallow movement from the inner to the outer eye, like a wave motion.

What’s the most common error men make when dyeing their hair or beards? 

It’s not very macho, but men should use women’s dye—then it looks like a real hair color. Men’s products always come out with a slight, underlying red tone.

Either | Or

It’s a little less of an evil—filler is completely uncontrolled.

I would never touch lasers. I see tons of destruction, and it’s irreversible.

It’s temporary, with no chemical reaction with the skin.

Ice is very anti-inflammatory and gives the illusion of tightening the pores.

If skin is fairly balanced, it has a good ability to absorb water.